How to Season/Break in a Motor

Do not submerge the motor into water, I say again, DO NOT!!! Its not an accurate way, or tested proven that doing that will increase the life span of motors.. Or rather, rust will build up and its as throwing your money into the bin.. Below is my own way of doing it:


Non carbon brush types: (atomic-tuned, rev-tuned, torque-tuned, touch dash, hyper dash, hyper dash 2, mach dash)


-run it on used/old alkaline batt till stop, without load
-drip oil into it while its hot (I uses syringe) and allow it to cool
-run it on used/old batt again till stop, same without load
-drip oil into it when it is hot
-run on strong alkaline batt for 10-15min
-drip oil and grease into it
-done


Carbon brush type: (
zen-tuned
, turbo dash, sprint dash, power dash, ultra dash, jet dash)


-do all steps
-reverse the polarity of the batt and repeat everything
-carbon brush are usually a block of carbon contacting the rotator, which give little electric current to flow in
-doing the steps 3 times is to "smoothen" out both sides of the brush


Plasma dash special case:


-more troublesome as the brush is coated with a layer of sliver
-do all steps and repeat for 3 times
-there will be a funny smell, that is the coating being burnt off and its done




For MS-Pro type motor, I am unfamiliar with the inner structure.. As for the oil, seek out hardware shops, buy those non heavy duty type of oil/grease, and NO WD40..  Azn


For after running maintenance, occasionally drip some lubrication into motor.. Friction occurs when 2 surface contacts each other, occurs inside the motor too.. Grease/oil is applied to reduce this problem..  I does that using a syringe, a few drops will do but do not soaking the whole thing into oil.. Components in the oil will dissolve soot (carbon) built up, ensuring the next run will be nice and smooth.. Note that this should only be done occasionally, not always, as too much oil will not help, yet loosen parts inside the motor itself..


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